Land Ahoy

Jan Mayen off in the distance

Just started what will likely be my group’s final official watch on this outbound leg. Jan Mayen came into view about three hours ago and is visible about 15 miles off the starboard side. We’re making for the southerly point of this southwest-to-northeasterly aligned island, and that point is just about three hours away. We’ll transition to the next watch at 6am and I’ll go right back to sleep for the remaining two hours or so before we reach the anchorage on the north side.

Why back to sleep? Because I was just roused from what had to be the worst sleep of my trip so far. Or I should say: I was roused from having not really slept at all. I’m not sure why I couldn’t sleep, just that I definitely didn’t.

Which is surprising since my group had had a great previous watch. I cooked a decent pasta dinner for everyone and we went on watch at 6pm. At about 7:30pm, the wind came up to about 20 knots apparent AND it moved far enough aft that Jarl and I rolled out the staysail. The minute we did that, our speed on the engine and main alone, which had been hovering in the low 5’s, jumped up to 6.5. Over the next hour, Polar Bear ranged between 6.3 and 7.3 knots, and frankly, was a lot more fun. That wind only lasted an hour before dropping again, at which point we furled the staysail, but it was fun while it lasted. And shortly thereafter, we changed watches.

As a result, I expected a quick, happy drop-off into sleep, but no such luck. So now I’m even more irascible than normal and really feeling the biting breeze and cold temps. It’s in the mid-30s (Farenheit) and the wind is blowing in the teens from off toward Jan Mayen. The island is shrouded in the clouds that form a low ceiling from horizon to horizon. As expected given what we’ve seen from the marine charts and topo maps, Jan Mayen rises quickly and steeply from the Norwegian Sea at the north and south ends, with a low middle area linking the two. The Beerenberg volcano, which our guests will try to climb, forms the northern half of the island.

According to a welcoming email from the island’s station commander, there are three other yachts already anchored at Jan Mayen. I’m assuming at least one of them is for the group of amateur-radio operators that Jarl mentioned upon our departure were en route to the island. If so, I’ll definitely look to connect with them, see if I can’t offer a little assistance…and maybe operate a bit on the ham bands. What can I say? I have nerd tendencies. The other yachts are, presumably, also climbers, since Beerenberg and it’s 2000-meter-plus summit is the main reason people come to Jan Mayen.

Travel, Uncategorized, ,

Plus Ça Change…AND Changes in Latitudes

Self-portrait in Fog

And so it continues. More motoring, more autopilot. What has changed is that the wispy clouds that created such great light conditions last night have been replaced by denser cousins, making for a plain old gray day. There’s a breath more wind — maybe 8 knots true — but it’s right on the nose. If we really wanted to sail we could bear off a bit to the north and shut off the engine, but that would mean moving at about two knots as well as adding to the distance to our destination. Since this is a commercial venture and we have guests with plans to climb a mountain, that’s not going to happen.

But there IS enough of a breeze that it’s freakin’ cold out here. I’m layered up big-time: long johns and a thermal shirt, Polartec pants (liners for my fly-fishing waders) and a heavy wool shirt, down vest, foul-weather overalls and a wind- and waterproof shell. I’m also sporting my mushing hat — as in: dog mushing. I got it years ago when I volunteered for the Iditarod (back before they started charging you to volunteer; charging volunteers…WTF?!) and never really used it. But it has a waterproof shell with a fleece liner — and ear flaps that can either velcro out of the way on top of the hat or under your neck so the sides of your head are protected. I’m currently in the latter configuration. In order to type, my hands are bare, but I’m sitting by the hot-air exhaust from the engine so every now and then I shove my tootsies in there to heat ’em up a bit. The things I do to report home…

What kind of a fool spends his summer bundled up like this? The kind of fool who lives in the high latitudes, that’s who, where the summer is more light than heat.

And we’re now, with every passing minute, moving higher in latitude than I’ve ever been. We crossed 70 degrees while I slept last night, and depending upon where we anchor at Jan Mayen, we might reach 71 degrees. That parallel bisects the island, and while our time in Greenland (in Scoresby Sund) will also be spent above 70, we’ll be just slightly south of Jan Mayen. Therefore, Jan Mayen, at just about the latitude of Barrow, Alaska, is the northerly apex of my trip.

Would I like to go farther north? Sure. But as chilly as I am right now, I believe I’ll content myself with 71 degrees north latitude. Doing so gets me nearly into Ned Rozell territory and he’s a badass (for a Yankee fan). And isn’t that always the goal? To be a badass? Nah, didn’t think so either, but I’m gettin’ a little punchy here in this cold drizzle. Better put the keyboard down.

Travel, Uncategorized, ,

On Norway

What is there to say about Norge? After many years of wanting to visit this country, I’ve been here for about three weeks and have come away with mixed emotions.

I’d always wanted to visit because Norway seemed to combine a lot of attributes I’ve always loved: mountains, ocean, winter sports, active people, attractive people (sue me) and so on. And the Norwegians I’d known in my life — mostly ski racers from my days back in Utah — had a joie de vivre that I envied and hoped to find upon visiting. In all those regards, Norway has lived up to and even surpassed my expectations.

I had no idea the Lofoten were as amazing as they were, and I definitely plan to return there someday, preferably with skis and surfboard and climbing gear in tow.

I can’t say whether the people were really all that active because I didn’t venture far from the boat and the waterfront. But they sure looked a lot fitter and healthier than they did in England. A lot rode bicycles and there were bikes parked everywhere: outside business buildings, supermarkets, bars. Far too many of them smoked, which of course is prevalent throughout Europe. And forgive me for being male but yes, the stereotypes are well-earned: Norwegian women are very lovely.

And all the people were very friendly. Everyone spoke great English and didn’t mind that I couldn’t even properly pronounce Norwegian words that were spelled out in front of me. They were willing to engage on any topic and other than those two schmucks back in Lerwick, no one wanted to get in the American’s face. The drivers were all very courteous, yielding to pedestrians even before they’d reached the start of a crosswalk.

One thing I hadn’t expected was just how expensive Norway is. And I’m not talking just a bit spendier than I’m used to, I’m talking astronomically more expensive. Pizza and a couple of beers: the equivalent of 60 bucks. Entry fee at the aviation museum: 25 dollars. One of those single-serving cups of Haagen-Dazs: 4 bucks. A 10-minute shower: 6 dollars. One load at a laundromat: 10 bucks. A pair of hiking boots: 450 bucks.

So any plan of moving here soon, or even visiting again before I’ve made my fortune, seems to be too rich a proposition for my blood.

But the bottom line is that I’m glad I came to Norway, and glad I came to an out-of-the-way part of Norway for my first visit. I’d like to check out Oslo and the south, which I hear is very different from this northern area, and I’d really like to get here sometime during winter-sports season. I’ll just have to save up a lot first.

Travel, Uncategorized,